BASILAN, EMBODYING VICTORY OF PEACE OVER CONFLICT

𝑩𝑨𝑺𝑰𝑳𝑨𝑵, 𝑬𝑴𝑩𝑶𝑫𝒀𝑰𝑵𝑮 𝑽𝑰𝑪𝑻𝑶𝑹𝒀 𝑶𝑭 𝑷𝑬𝑨𝑪𝑬 𝑶𝑽𝑬𝑹 𝑪𝑶𝑵𝑭𝑳𝑰𝑪𝑻

Defenseless against the pounding barrage of misconceptions and stigmata, the province of Basilan has been robbed of its popularity and charm for the longest time, like a forbidden kingdom virtually sealed off from the rest of the Philippines.

Province of Basilan, the treasure islands of the southern seas

The stain that smudged the beautiful face of Basilan from the negative, unfair beliefs of the people that wrecked havoc upon its tourism industry has spread not just in the province but in the entire Bangsamoro Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao (BARMM) also embodied by the equally charismatic provinces of Sulu, Tawi-Tawi, Maguindanao and Lanao del Sur.

In Basilan, I had entered a world of fascinating realm of opposing extremes: paradise or warzone. I negated the latter and rather started being enthralled in its strangeness, its complexities, and its beauty. It was profoundly different than what I thought or more so, than to what the fear uninformed people are trying to convey about the province.

Nevertheless, wonders abound in the isolation of Basilan, with its steaming jungles, pristine beaches, rich open seas, sacred places and beautiful, multicultural people.

The largest island in the entire Sulu Archipelago, Basilan is home to just over 420,000 people, consisting mainly of the indigenous Yakans, the Tausugs, Chavacanos and Bajaus, the last group, who inhabit the timeless villages built on stilts that crammed on the narrow Isabela Channel; a scene to behold, that is the essence of sea life in Basilan. Ironically, the province is the least populated among the provinces of Bangsamoro Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao (BARMM), despite being the nearest to the major metropolis of the turbulent Zamboanga.

Bajaus also called sea gypsies living on stilts above water

It was a dream came true when I first traveled in Mindanao, way back in the bustling Davao but certainly reading the lines of "Oh Fair Basilan", the province's official anthem, created a desire in me to reach the distant lands of Mindanao, where treasures of nature enticement hide beyond most human recognition and awareness.

Since then, I have strolled the labyrinthine alleys of Isabela City to have a glimpse of daily life in the provincial seat of governance; where merchants sit cross-legged in open fronted shops folding and hanging colorful abaya, hijab or niqab; where boatmen shout out calling passengers for a ride for an inter-island transport to the nearby Malamawi Island; where the Bajaus, or sea gypsies moore their lepa-lepa or canoes on the pier or where a Yakan elderly offers an aromatic, sweet-tasting marang, a cousin of jack fruit or bread fruit for a mere thirty pesos per piece the size of a small basketball.

A woman of Yakan ethnicity, the major ethnic group in Basilan

I had visited several masjid or mosques, scattered in the city where venerating chants in Islamic tones filled the air - Masjid Mabarakat and Masjid Geras, the grandest and most elegant with harmoniously combined domes, cupolas and minarets. At a distance from the altar of the Geras mosque, professed Muslims kneeling, sandals off and rocking back and forth to the rhythm of their prayers. We were witnessing a part of Islam's ritual devotional prayer or "salah" (salāt). Here and in most part of Mindanao where Muslims can be found, the chorus of salah intoning from hollow to high-pitch tone precisely defines the blissful state of peace, rather than conflicts.

Masjid Geras, the largest mosque in Basilan

Basilan is also a land of grand scenery with its many islands sprinkled in the immensity of one of the deepest bodies of water surrounding the Philippines, the Sulu Sea. 

Among the islands, Malamawi is no doubt the most visited, just a 5-minute boat ride from Isabela City wharf. The lepa-lepa, a small but incredibly fast boat without a lateral outrigger support is the king of Isabela Channel, the inlet that separates the island from mainland Basilan. The great interior of Malamawi becomes bolder as habal-habal or motorcycles find its way among the massive rubber plantations in the island that give a majestic proportion to the forest and meadows along the way. We reached a secluded beach resort north of the island in 15 minutes ride.

Malamawi Island, one of the most popular beaches in BARMM

Unmarred by the unsightly throngs of beach-goers, the extravagance of Pahali-Malamawi pristine white sand beach was an awesome sight, exhilarating and utterly breathtaking. There were no people and I was drifted in dream on my beach chair under a thatch-roofed cottage. Perhaps it was the silence, or the gentle surf murmur that awakened me. I looked upon the sky and I saw the immense, radiant clouds where the sun plays peekaboo.

Basilan's reputation as a notorious warzone persisted for years since the infamous Siege of Lamitan in 2001, followed by the bloody Battle of Basilan in 2014 and the Battle of Tipo-Tipo in 2016. But it is completely different now. Lamitan today, the province's new capital administratively under BARMM is a venerable city due east of Isabela City. Surprisingly, the city was founded by a Caviteño, Pedro Javier Cuevas popularly known as Datu Kalun whose monument was proudly immortalized in Datu Calun Triangle in the heart of the city.

The pristine waters and immaculate white sand of Pahali Beach

Four years in a row since 2016, Lamitan City received the Seal of Good Local Governance or SGLG until 2019. The yearly grant of an SGLG to LGUs is based on governance efficiency and involvement of local officials in domestic humanitarian, peace and security programs, a manifestation of how safe traveling to the city is. 

One of Lamitan's 40 barangays, Sengal prides over its massive rubber plantation as far as the eye could see, helping the entire province of Basilan become the third largest rubber-producing province in the country trailing behind Cotabato and Zamboanga Sibugay.

A masterpiece in ecological protection, the Tulip Garden in the city boasts a romantic motif and landscape evoking the grandeur of the Netherlands or Ireland. Made from thousand recycled plastic bottles shaped into tulips of dazzling colors, Lamitan Tulip Garden is an instant sensation aside from its fantastic beaches and magnific waterfalls one of which is the Bulingan Falls, a 40-meter wide waterfalls so unique with its vertical, hexagonal column of rocks that lined its width and length.

Bulingan Falls, one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Lamitan City due to its unusual geometric design

Even me was perplexed.

Isabela City is under Region IX. Lamitan City is tied with BARMM; a contrasting duality but at the same time, together, they make Basilan as it is. 

Last year 2022, the City Tourism Office of Basilan in Isabela City recorded 30,000 visitors, still a small number compared to Cebu City with over 1 million and Davao City, close to 1 million arrivals but thankfully, the rising influx has been a good indication of Basilan's potential as a thriving tourism destination because people are now braving their fear in the region...

But forget about the stigmata of wars, conflicts and disproportionate news about Mindanao.

Boats called lepa-lepa is the mainstay of water transport around Basilan islands

In 1978, Freddie Aguilar wrote the lyrics of his popular song that goes,

"Pinoy kapwa Pinoy ang naglalaban doon sa Mindanao.

Marami ng dugo ang dumanak sa lupa ng Mindanao...", a song that detrimentally impacted and casted fear and safety concern to people; at least at some point because that was once happening.

But that was in 1978. When I visited Mindanao, especially here in the notoriously tagged as insurgency-infested province, I have seen astonishing variety of endless fun and adventures, enough to represent the victory of peace over conflict in Basilan.

Peace grant unto the beautiful province of Basilan

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