Friday, April 19, 2024

BASILAN, EMBODYING VICTORY OF PEACE OVER CONFLICT

๐‘ฉ๐‘จ๐‘บ๐‘ฐ๐‘ณ๐‘จ๐‘ต, ๐‘ฌ๐‘ด๐‘ฉ๐‘ถ๐‘ซ๐’€๐‘ฐ๐‘ต๐‘ฎ ๐‘ฝ๐‘ฐ๐‘ช๐‘ป๐‘ถ๐‘น๐’€ ๐‘ถ๐‘ญ ๐‘ท๐‘ฌ๐‘จ๐‘ช๐‘ฌ ๐‘ถ๐‘ฝ๐‘ฌ๐‘น ๐‘ช๐‘ถ๐‘ต๐‘ญ๐‘ณ๐‘ฐ๐‘ช๐‘ป

Defenseless against the pounding barrage of misconceptions and stigmata, the province of Basilan has been robbed of its popularity and charm for the longest time, like a forbidden kingdom virtually sealed off from the rest of the Philippines.

Province of Basilan, the treasure islands of the southern seas

The stain that smudged the beautiful face of Basilan from the negative, unfair beliefs of the people that wrecked havoc upon its tourism industry has spread not just in the province but in the entire Bangsamoro Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao (BARMM) also embodied by the equally charismatic provinces of Sulu, Tawi-Tawi, Maguindanao and Lanao del Sur.

In Basilan, I had entered a world of fascinating realm of opposing extremes: paradise or warzone. I negated the latter and rather started being enthralled in its strangeness, its complexities, and its beauty. It was profoundly different than what I thought or more so, than to what the fear uninformed people are trying to convey about the province.

Nevertheless, wonders abound in the isolation of Basilan, with its steaming jungles, pristine beaches, rich open seas, sacred places and beautiful, multicultural people.

The largest island in the entire Sulu Archipelago, Basilan is home to just over 420,000 people, consisting mainly of the indigenous Yakans, the Tausugs, Chavacanos and Bajaus, the last group, who inhabit the timeless villages built on stilts that crammed on the narrow Isabela Channel; a scene to behold, that is the essence of sea life in Basilan. Ironically, the province is the least populated among the provinces of Bangsamoro Autonomous Region in Muslim Mindanao (BARMM), despite being the nearest to the major metropolis of the turbulent Zamboanga.

Bajaus also called sea gypsies living on stilts above water

It was a dream came true when I first traveled in Mindanao, way back in the bustling Davao but certainly reading the lines of "Oh Fair Basilan", the province's official anthem, created a desire in me to reach the distant lands of Mindanao, where treasures of nature enticement hide beyond most human recognition and awareness.

Since then, I have strolled the labyrinthine alleys of Isabela City to have a glimpse of daily life in the provincial seat of governance; where merchants sit cross-legged in open fronted shops folding and hanging colorful abaya, hijab or niqab; where boatmen shout out calling passengers for a ride for an inter-island transport to the nearby Malamawi Island; where the Bajaus, or sea gypsies moore their lepa-lepa or canoes on the pier or where a Yakan elderly offers an aromatic, sweet-tasting marang, a cousin of jack fruit or bread fruit for a mere thirty pesos per piece the size of a small basketball.

A woman of Yakan ethnicity, the major ethnic group in Basilan

I had visited several masjid or mosques, scattered in the city where venerating chants in Islamic tones filled the air - Masjid Mabarakat and Masjid Geras, the grandest and most elegant with harmoniously combined domes, cupolas and minarets. At a distance from the altar of the Geras mosque, professed Muslims kneeling, sandals off and rocking back and forth to the rhythm of their prayers. We were witnessing a part of Islam's ritual devotional prayer or "salah" (salฤt). Here and in most part of Mindanao where Muslims can be found, the chorus of salah intoning from hollow to high-pitch tone precisely defines the blissful state of peace, rather than conflicts.

Masjid Geras, the largest mosque in Basilan

Basilan is also a land of grand scenery with its many islands sprinkled in the immensity of one of the deepest bodies of water surrounding the Philippines, the Sulu Sea. 

Among the islands, Malamawi is no doubt the most visited, just a 5-minute boat ride from Isabela City wharf. The lepa-lepa, a small but incredibly fast boat without a lateral outrigger support is the king of Isabela Channel, the inlet that separates the island from mainland Basilan. The great interior of Malamawi becomes bolder as habal-habal or motorcycles find its way among the massive rubber plantations in the island that give a majestic proportion to the forest and meadows along the way. We reached a secluded beach resort north of the island in 15 minutes ride.

Malamawi Island, one of the most popular beaches in BARMM

Unmarred by the unsightly throngs of beach-goers, the extravagance of Pahali-Malamawi pristine white sand beach was an awesome sight, exhilarating and utterly breathtaking. There were no people and I was drifted in dream on my beach chair under a thatch-roofed cottage. Perhaps it was the silence, or the gentle surf murmur that awakened me. I looked upon the sky and I saw the immense, radiant clouds where the sun plays peekaboo.

Basilan's reputation as a notorious warzone persisted for years since the infamous Siege of Lamitan in 2001, followed by the bloody Battle of Basilan in 2014 and the Battle of Tipo-Tipo in 2016. But it is completely different now. Lamitan today, the province's new capital administratively under BARMM is a venerable city due east of Isabela City. Surprisingly, the city was founded by a Caviteรฑo, Pedro Javier Cuevas popularly known as Datu Kalun whose monument was proudly immortalized in Datu Calun Triangle in the heart of the city.

The pristine waters and immaculate white sand of Pahali Beach

Four years in a row since 2016, Lamitan City received the Seal of Good Local Governance or SGLG until 2019. The yearly grant of an SGLG to LGUs is based on governance efficiency and involvement of local officials in domestic humanitarian, peace and security programs, a manifestation of how safe traveling to the city is. 

One of Lamitan's 40 barangays, Sengal prides over its massive rubber plantation as far as the eye could see, helping the entire province of Basilan become the third largest rubber-producing province in the country trailing behind Cotabato and Zamboanga Sibugay.

A masterpiece in ecological protection, the Tulip Garden in the city boasts a romantic motif and landscape evoking the grandeur of the Netherlands or Ireland. Made from thousand recycled plastic bottles shaped into tulips of dazzling colors, Lamitan Tulip Garden is an instant sensation aside from its fantastic beaches and magnific waterfalls one of which is the Bulingan Falls, a 40-meter wide waterfalls so unique with its vertical, hexagonal column of rocks that lined its width and length.

Bulingan Falls, one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Lamitan City due to its unusual geometric design

Even me was perplexed.

Isabela City is under Region IX. Lamitan City is tied with BARMM; a contrasting duality but at the same time, together, they make Basilan as it is. 

Last year 2022, the City Tourism Office of Basilan in Isabela City recorded 30,000 visitors, still a small number compared to Cebu City with over 1 million and Davao City, close to 1 million arrivals but thankfully, the rising influx has been a good indication of Basilan's potential as a thriving tourism destination because people are now braving their fear in the region...

But forget about the stigmata of wars, conflicts and disproportionate news about Mindanao.

Boats called lepa-lepa is the mainstay of water transport around Basilan islands

In 1978, Freddie Aguilar wrote the lyrics of his popular song that goes,

"Pinoy kapwa Pinoy ang naglalaban doon sa Mindanao.

Marami ng dugo ang dumanak sa lupa ng Mindanao...", a song that detrimentally impacted and casted fear and safety concern to people; at least at some point because that was once happening.

But that was in 1978. When I visited Mindanao, especially here in the notoriously tagged as insurgency-infested province, I have seen astonishing variety of endless fun and adventures, enough to represent the victory of peace over conflict in Basilan.

Peace grant unto the beautiful province of Basilan

More:

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#Mindanao #ExploreMindanao #Basilan #BARMMTourism #LamitanCityTourism #IsabelaCityTourism #BasilanTourism

Friday, April 5, 2024

BATANG PLATEAU: A JUXTAPOSITION OF WORLD RENOWNED PLACES

BATANG PLATEAU: A JUXTAPOSITION OF WORLD RENOWNED PLACES

๐Ÿ“Œ Dilam, Calayan Island, Cagayan

Long unknown to the mass travelers and backpackers from all over the country including myself who constantly in search of the marvelous glories of the great outdoors, Brgy. Dilam, the northernmost part of the fantabulous island municipality of Calayan, Cagayan revealed to me a kingdom of immense pastoral meadows over undulating, rolling hills and terrains edged by aquarium seas teeming with life in the Babuyanes: the Batang Plateau.

One portion of Batang Plateau edged by a white sand beach and aquarium clear sea.

Located on the peninsular northeast end of Calayan Island hugging the unpredictable and treacherous Babuyan Channel, the Batang Plateau is an extensive land area of pasture having a relatively level surface raised sharply above adjacent land on at least one side. It is literally considered as "the edge of Dilam".

It was strange and hypnotizing standing on top of this grand mesa of grassland spattered with collosal stone blocks and boulders that amplify the serenity of the rustic and idyllic landscape. The windswept zenith of the plateau commands the 360-degree view of the entire Babuyan Group of Islands.

The northernmost part called "the edge of Dilam".

On the north, about less than 10 kilometers away is the bizarre, uninhabited island of Dipari (Panultan/Panuitan Island in Google Maps and internet) clearly visible from the plateau. The faint outline of Babuyan Claro volcano evokes mysticism from the northeast. On the southeast is the equally fascinating peak of Camiguin de Babuyanes volcano while due southwest lies the tectonic island of Dalupiri - a usual epicenter of geological tremors that occasionally barrage north Philippines - luckily most are feeble shocks no more than magnitude 4.

The sparsely peopled Calayan, while slowly embracing tourism development continue to awe and attract attention but still its rugged outskirts remain gloriously wild.

For me, the Batang Plateau in Dilam is a juxtaposition of the different features of world renowned places that makes it truly enchanting: the massive black rocks scattered on carpet greenery, some gigantic, remind me of the Easter Island statues (called Moai) of the long gone Rapa Nui tribe in Chile, South America; its vast green pastures spectacular with grazing cattles evoke the peaceful dreams of a fairytale in Switzerland or New Zealand; its rough coast resembles the tundras of Iceland or the Scandinavia; the body of water surrounding it is as ghastly as the Bermuda Triangle; its secluded green tropical vastness, with plants endemic only to the Babuyanes recalls parts of the rich Amazonian tropical rainforest; and just its sheer entirety mirrors Batanes' most iconic landscapes, the Vayang and Marlboro Rolling Hills.

Rocky terrains resembling Easter Island of South America.

Green and verdant pastures typical of Switzerland or New Zealand.

Batang Plateau evokes the tundra scenes of Iceland or Scandinavia.

The treacherous waters of the Babuyanes present fear like the Bermuda Triangle.

The richness of plant biodiversity reminds me of the Amazon Rainforest of Brazil.

Just the entire landscape almost mirrors that of Batanes.

Perhaps the most prominent part of Batang is the so called Bimmukel Rolling Hill, a point of perfectly rolling hamburger mound jutting out into the sea as a peninsula or a cape. "Bimmukel" is an Iluko word that means "rounded"; the landform speaks and lives up to its namesake.

The perfect shape of Bimmukel Hill.

There, it was unnerving to stand on top of a windswept littoral hill realizing that to witness the untamed shores and the stretch of white sandy beach in their most impressive form is also the fact that they will become vulnerable soon. If, for the next few years tourism industry in the far-flung wilderness of Calayan continue to dominate and bustle dramatically, the serenity of these wild coasts surrounding Batang may become exploited - if sustainable tourism is underestimated.

Dilam Inlet, as seen on top of Batang Plateau.

Absolutely, much of Calayan remains pristine as remoteness, weather and underdevelopment defend this realm from severe disturbance, over exploitation and possibly, abuse...

As the thunderous waves reach my ears, the force of wind touches my face, and the rasp of the green, green grass of Batang Plateau tickles my bare feet, I knew I was not the one to doubt both the beauty of the entire Calayan Group of Islands and the power of change that would soon might conquer this last ecological frontier of Cagayan.

Video:

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#EndlessFunCagayan #Cagayan #VisitCagayanPH #CagayanProvince #TworismoSaLambak #BimmukelHill #DilamCalayan #CalayanCagayan #CalayanIsland #LoveThePhilippines #Babuyanes Calayan Travel and Tours