Thursday, August 21, 2025

LIBSONG CAVE: THE HIDDEN DEPTHS OF SICALAO

LIBSONG CAVE: THE HIDDEN DEPTHS OF SICALAO

Sonnyboy Pacursa

Libsong Cave is the newest cave discovered and photographed by Explore LASAM, Cagayan—one of the six (6) caves found in Brgy. Sicalao, Lasam, Cagayan. It remains relatively unknown because it lies hidden in the heart of a limestone mountain and is difficult to access. Considered the deepest cave in Lasam, it drops through a chasm (depression) approximately 50 meters deep just to reach its entrance. This dramatic descent inspired its name—Libsong, an Ilocano word meaning “deep hole” or “chasm”, named by the first Aetas and locals who happened to get near the hole.

The main hole entrance to the right chamber of Libsong Cave 

To reach the cave’s mouth from the edge of the cliff, one must use a strong rope to descend. The walls surrounding the opening are nearly vertical, with an inclination of 90 degrees, making any unassisted descent extremely dangerous.

This is what Libsong Cave looks like from the outside 

Even from the outside, the cave exudes mystery. Bats swarm around its mouth, their screeches echoing through the forest, adding to the dramatic scene and atmosphere. Inside it, Libsong Cave divides into two main chambers—the left chamber and the right chamber.

Inside the right chamber of Libsong Cave 

The left chamber features delicate, dripping stalactites that are still in the early stages of formation, as this section is shorter than the right. From this chamber, a stream of cold, crystal-clear water flows  going into the right chamber. At the end of its passage lies a plunge pool, whose depth and water source remain unknown.

Examining the source of water from the left chamber

The right chamber extends roughly 200 meters and contains various speleothems such as draperies, flowstones, coralloids, dogtooth spars, helictites, stalagmites, and stalactites. A large dome marks this chamber, with its ceiling covered in dense clusters of stalactites and bat holes. Wildlife documented inside includes bats (kulippato, kurarapnit or panniki), huntsman spiders (lawwalawwa), eels (igat), snakes (uleg), lizards (alibut) and swiftlets (sallapingaw).

Flowstones and stalactites hang from the ceiling inside the cave

At the far end lies a wide plunge pool fed by a stream that connects back to the left chamber. The river’s outlet inside the cave remains undetermined, though it's believed that the water seeps out through the limestone cracks and exits toward the lower portions of the mountain.

You can't enter the cave from this opening

Although the cave was initially discovered by local Aetas, the Explore Lasam Team was the first to document it through photographs taken from the inside. The team first attempted to explore the cave on May 17, 2025, but had to retreat due to a lack of proper safety equipment. It wasn’t until June 29, 2025—which also marks the 29th cave explored by the team—that they successfully penetrated and documented the depths of Libsong Cave. 

Deeper into the right chamber where there is a plunge pool with unknown depth

All praise to God who made this extraordinary creation.

Cave stains such as iron or manganese due to mineral drips

This is the first known visit to the cave in relation to tourism and outdoor activity.

Examining the water's depth from the left chamber

Keep exploring!

The dangerous and precipitous entrance of Libsong Cave

Rediscovered, published and made known by Explore Lasam Team 

Extraordinary cave ceiling 








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Wednesday, July 9, 2025

I AM A CAGAYANO: FORGED BY LAND, BLOOD AND MEMORY

 AGGAO NAC CAGAYAN: "Visiting 28 towns, 1 city"

I AM A CAGAYANO: FORGED BY LAND, BLOOD AND MEMORY

Saniboy Pacursa | June 2025

I owe my identity as a Cagayano to the hills and valleys, the mountains, the trees and flowers, the rivers, the plains, the islands in the north, and the rich seas beyond, that shaped the smiling face of the land where I was born.

My body was forged under the unflinching gaze of the sun—like a sturdy carabao that wrestled with the mud, the cracked soil, and the rocky slopes of the hills—bearing on my sunburnt shoulders the weight of my dreams. Heavy, but hopeful dreams. Yet, it is the scent of the grass and wildflowers riding on the wind that gives me strength. The touch of the “amihan” breeze on my darkened brow melts the frozen warmth across the valley where I first beheld nature’s beauty, where I first became aware of the events, the history, and the stories that gave shape and color to the face of Cagayan—etched into the maps of the universe.

Batang Plateau in the Babuyan Group of Islands 

The mighty Sierra Madre mountains to the east, the rich Cordilleras to the west, the turquoise blue waters of Palaui Island and the pristine sands of the Babuyanes Group of Islands to the north, the bustling city of Tuguegarao to the south, and in the heart of it all—the valley home that is dear to me carved by the Cagayan River, the lifeblood of the region’s progress—these are the natural stages where I shed the careless habits of an unwise youth and acted out the foolish deeds of the theatre of my heydays. My presence on these stages is a distinct feature of my homeland, and in this telling, I know right that no one would dare question me when I say: I am a Cagayano.

Very long before the tyrant Spaniard Don Juan de Salcedo landed at the mouth of the Pamplona River in 1572 to conquer the fertile valley, the archaic Homo luzonensis known as the Callao Man or the mythical “Ubag” already lived among the caves and roamed the vastness of the valleys of this land racing against the shadows of the mighty stegodons, giant tortoises, elephants and rhinoceroses. The seed of his being flows through my veins—my ancient ancestor, the first 

Filipino, the first Cagayano. Though his soul may have vanished into the unknowable corners of the valley, the history buried with his bones, teeth and tools, unearthed from the graves of the past in Callao Caves, reshaped not only the story of Cagayan but of all humankind.

Libsong Cave, discovered in Lasam, June 2025

From the lineage of “Ubag” grew the seeds and the very existence of the Cagayano, of the Filipino, pre-dating those what we know today as the Negritos, the Malays, the Indones or the Austronesians. And from there, I inherited my being a Cagayano from my ancestors—those who suffered under foreign domination: forced labor, unjust tribute systems, the infamous tobacco monopoly, widespread corruption, and abuses of human rights. These injustices inflicted great suffering on the Ilocanos and the Cagayanos during the time of colonization. Yet my ancestors—the patriotic sons and daughters of Nueva Segovia, and all the brave people of Cagayan—fought back and became part of the struggle that shaped our province’s and nation’s rich history.

My lips do not remain sealed when it comes to speaking about my forebears, ancestors who still live in memory. I do not fear to name the cruelty of the past, for remembering these harsh truths must serve to teach us never to become like those who showed no mercy to humankind.

Now flowing through my veins is the immortal blood of Cagayano heroes and heroines. Their proud dignity speaks through me; their mindsets, culture and beliefs are deeply woven into my identity. The welts on their backs from the whips of the oppressors are insignias—reminders for us all to remain steadfast through life’s trials.

Kannaway Beach, Dilam, Calayan Island

I am the child of a poor farmer—one who toiled on the fertile banks of the Cagayan River, in the lush valleys, and across the vast plains. From the abundance of these lands came bountiful harvests—rice, corn, coconut, sugarcane, peanut and fruits—crops that not only sustained our table but also reached the global market, feeding both the body and the hope of the province for the coveted progress. I am also the grandchild of a fisherman who braved the fierce waves of the Babuyan Channel for the precious “bulong-unas” of Santa Ana, the tasty “dorado” of Claveria, the sought-after “gamet” of Santa Praxedes and the famous “aramang” and the rare “ludong” of Aparri, taming the raging seas between the warring Pacific Ocean and the West Philippine Sea.

In these waters, I saw how foreign eyes were drawn to the wealth hidden in the black sands—black sand we considered gold—resting along the long shores of northern Cagayan, my province. I witnessed, too, how those same seas became silent routes for smuggled contraband—goods of mysterious origin, threatening to shatter the dreams of our children and our people. And yet, I also saw the rise of modern-day heroes along those same shores—friends and allies, armed not just with weapons but with courage and resolve, standing against invaders, island-grabbers, abusers of nature, destroyers of dreams, and the greed of those who exploit our God-given resources. These are the ones who now carry forward the spirit of the fight—the battles once won by my Ilocano ancestors, who were once dismissed as mere indios by the colonizers blinded by arrogance. Now, we stand with dignity reclaimed, no longer silent.

Caddud Falls in Calassitan, Santo Niño (Faire)

I know all of this to be true—not because I read it, but because I have lived it. Because I am a Cagayano.

There were times I hesitated, wondering if I should give up being a probinsyano—a true Cagayano—in exchange for life in the highly-urbanized cities, or in distant lands flowing with milk and honey, where the future seems bright and full of promise. I considered it, hoping perhaps to escape the stereotype branded in people’s minds—that a Cagayano is “kuripot” or stingy, and worse, selfish.

I felt the fear and anxiety—the thought that my race, tribe, the minority I belong to, and the sun-roasted color of my skin from the scorching heat of Tuguegarao and the rest of the valley, might determine my worth—whether I’d be seen as fully human or something less of a human. Because of this, I’ve seen many of my townsmen lose their confidence. I’ve seen them give up their homes, their traditions, and culture in exchange for a better life in the lands blanketed by snow and lit by the sparkle of the beaconing dollar. In return, they left behind the lush Sierra Madre for the concrete jungles, the peaceful streets of home for the blinding alleys of nightlife, the tropical azure seas for the hot and desolate deserts and the healthy dishes like “pinakbet” and “dinengdeng” for the greasy burgers and pizzas.

They became afraid. They felt ashamed. And worst of all, they forgot they were Cagayanos. But because of this, I found the fire within my very heart—the burning truth that I was born among heroes and heroines. I was born unafraid, and I will never be ashamed of being a Cagayano.

Cape Engaño, Palaui Island overlooking the Dos Hermanos Islands

I come from a land that will never allow its people to be diminished by prejudice or belittled by narrow-minded views—the views that have led many of my townsmen to hide or deny their identity for fear of being labeled as the ill-famed “kuripot” Cagayanos. From what I know, our ancestors have already won that battle—with heads held up high—proving that being Cagayano means belonging to a land of smiling beauty for both the dark-skinned or fair-skinned, for the farmers of the immense valley, for the growers in the Sierra Madre mountains, for the fishermen of the Babuyan Channel and the Pacific, for the tillers of the lands, for the resilient laborers in towns and cities, for the wise-spenders and the brilliant, for the giver and the generous.

Cagayan is not for the greedy, not for the addicts, not for the murderers, not for those who exploit nature, not for the power-hungry and not for the corrupt whose voraciousness is used to enrich some and impoverish the rest. No matter how unbelievable it may seem to the doubters, a true Cagayano stands unshaken.

Whoever we are, whatever our immediate interests, no matter how heavy the burdens we carry from the past, no matter how fearful a hostage we are to the uncertain future, and despite how others may judge our abilities or question our character— today, let us make no mistake of stopping ourselves from proudly proclaiming who we really are.

So who now would dare question or challenge my identity as a Cagayano? Today, more than ever, it feels truly good to be one.

I am a Cagayano, forged by land, blood and memory.

---

Sonnyboy Pacursa|Submitted to CACWA, non winning entry.

#AggaoNacCagayan #CagayanDay #VisitCagayanPH #EndlessFunCagayan #Cagayan #CagayanProvince #TwoRismoSaLambak #Cagayano

Saturday, March 8, 2025

PINSAL DE CABATACAN FALLS, ANG PINAKAMAGANDANG WATERFALL SA LASAM

 Tourist Spot Alert:

PINSAL DE CABATACAN FALLS: ANG PINAKAMAGANDANG WATERFALL SA LASAM

📌 Cabatacan West, Lasam, Cagayan

MATATAGPUAN sa paanan ng makapangyarihang kabundukan ng Cordilleras, sa kanlurang bahagi ng Lasam, malapit sa hangganan nito sa bayan ng Flora, Apayao, ang Pinsal de Cabatacan Falls ay isang natatanging likas na atraksiyon. Napapalibutan ito ng mga matataas na bundok at makakapal na kagubatan, at mararating lamang ito mula sa bayan ng Lasam. Imposible itong marating kung ikaw ay magmumula sa silangang bahagi ng Flora dahil sa taas at sukal ng mga bundok na tatahakin mo. Bukod pa rito, wala pang "established trails" sa bahaging ito ng Flora patungo sa bayan ng Lasam.

Ang Pinsal de Cabatacan Falls, ang pinakapambihirang talon sa bayan ng Lasam

Sa teknikal na terminolohiya, ang salitang "pinsal" sa Ilokano ay nangangahulugang maliit na talon na tinatawag ring "cascade" sa Ingles. Kung ang cascade ay mayroong well-defined at enclosed na "plunge pool" (basin), tinatawag itong "pekkan" sa Ilokano, samantalang maaari nang matukoy na talon o waterfall ang anyong tubig kung ito ay may konsiderableng taas at may tuloy-tuloy na malakas na pag-agos sa anggulong halos 90 degrees.

Tinawag itong Pinsal de Cabatacan upang magkaroon ito ng sariling pagkakakilanlan dahil sa dami ng mga waterfalls sa Hilagang Luzon na mayroon ring pangalang Pinsal. Ang Pinsal ay hindi lamang tumutuloy sa iisang lugar o talon, ngunit kung daragdagan mo ito ng katagang "de Cabatacan", malalaman nating ito ang natatanging waterfall na matatagpuan lamang sa bayan ng Lasam, partikular sa Barangay Cabatacan West.

Isa sa mga marami pang "cascades" sa palibot ng Pinsal de Cabatacan Falls

Ang Pinsal de Cabatacan Falls ay isang uri ng fan waterfall, ibig sabihin, ang daloy ng tubig ay hugis abaniko. Mula sa isang stream ng tubig sa itaas, kumakalat ito na parang abaniko habang ito ay bumubulusok patungo sa plunge pool o ilog. Ang limestone rock kung saan dumadaloy ang tubig ng talon ay hugis tatsulok o tila may anyong bunot (lampaso). Bukod tangi ito sa lahat ng mga waterfalls sa bayan dahil sa pambihira nitong porma at anyo.

Dagdag pa rito, ang Pinsal ay isa ring multi-cascade falls dahil napapalibutan ito ng mas maliliit pang mga cascades. Tatlo sa mga cascades ay mayroong butas o cavern sa ilalim na nahulma mula sa milenyang pagtunaw ng tubig sa mga limestones hanggang sa tuluyan itong nakagawa ng mga butas o cavern at maliliit na tunnels.

Mula sa milenyang pag-agos ng tubig sa mga limestones, nabuo ang mga caverns sa Pinsal de Cabatacan

Mas lalong nagiging kagila-gilalas ang anyo ng Pinsal tuwing darating ang tag-ulan dahil lumalakas ang mga kulay puting agos na tila mga snow o niyebe na dumadausdos mula rito. Sa palibot nito ng Pinsal, kapansin-pansin ang dami ng mga pako (fiddlehead ferns), bilagot (aba ti bantay) at arimuran (rattan) na siyang nagbibigay luntiang kulay sa kapaligiran.

Sa kapal ng kagubatang matatagpuan sa bahaging ito ng Cabatacan West, dito nakita ang presensiya ng mga pambihirang hayop gaya ng Philippine hanging parrot, Luzon hawk-owl at golden crowned flying fox na naisama sa cultural mapping of natural heritage sa isinasagawang Project LaCASA (Lasam Culture and Arts Significant Artifacts) upang tukuyin ang mga nakakamanghang hayop na matatagpuan sa munisipalidad.

Ang Pinsal de Cabatacan Falls ay isang uri ng multi-cascade waterfall

Ang mga pambihirang katangian nito ang patunay na ang Pinsal de Cabatacan Falls ay ang pinakamagandang waterfall sa buong bayan. Katunayan, ito ang naging flagship waterfall ng Lasam na napabilang sa Coffee Table Book ng Cagayan Provincial Tourism Board. Umabot sa mahigit dalawang libong Facebook shares ang Pinsal de Cabatacan nang una itong nailathala sa ating social media, ang pinakamarami sa lahat ng mga nailathalang tourist spots ng Lasam. Naging nominee rin sa isang online voting platform Visit My Bayan ang Pinsal de Cabatacan na umani rin ng kamangha-manghang bilang ng mga reactions mula sa mga travelers at viewers sa buong Pilipinas.

Isa sa mga maraming caverns na matatagpuan sa Pinsal de Cabatacan

Ang katubigan ng Pinsal de Cabatacan ay mayaman rin sa talangka (agatol o forest crabs) at susong-pilipit (agurong o jagora shell), patunay na ang bahaging ito ng kagubatan ay malusog pa at kaya pa nitong suportahan ang iba't ibang ekosistema at biodiversity sa lugar.

Ngunit may isang pangitain tayong nakikita:

𝙆𝙖𝙖𝙠𝙞𝙗𝙖𝙩 𝙣𝙜 𝙠𝙖𝙣𝙮𝙖𝙣𝙜 𝙩𝙖𝙜𝙡𝙖𝙮 𝙣𝙖 𝙠𝙖𝙜𝙖𝙣𝙙𝙖𝙝𝙖𝙣 𝙖𝙮 𝙖𝙣𝙜 𝙥𝙖𝙣𝙜𝙖𝙣𝙞𝙗 𝙣𝙞𝙩𝙤 𝙨𝙖 𝙠𝙖𝙢𝙖𝙮 𝙣𝙜 𝙢𝙜𝙖 𝙥𝙖𝙣𝙜𝙖𝙝𝙖𝙨. 𝙃𝙞𝙣𝙙𝙞 𝙢𝙖𝙡𝙖𝙮𝙤𝙣𝙜 𝙨𝙖 𝙙𝙖𝙧𝙖𝙩𝙞𝙣𝙜 𝙣𝙖 𝙢𝙜𝙖 𝙥𝙖𝙣𝙖𝙝𝙤𝙣, 𝙖𝙣𝙜 𝙠𝙪𝙠𝙤 𝙣𝙜 𝙢𝙜𝙖 𝙜𝙖𝙣𝙞𝙙 𝙖𝙩 𝙝𝙖𝙮𝙤𝙠 𝙖𝙮 𝙢𝙖𝙠𝙖𝙠𝙖𝙧𝙖𝙩𝙞𝙣𝙜 𝙨𝙖 𝙥𝙪𝙨𝙤𝙣 𝙣𝙜 𝙠𝙖𝙜𝙪𝙗𝙖𝙩𝙖𝙣. 𝘼𝙣𝙜 𝙢𝙖𝙠𝙖𝙥𝙖𝙡 𝙣𝙖 𝙠𝙖𝙜𝙪𝙗𝙖𝙩𝙖𝙣𝙜 𝙨𝙪𝙢𝙖𝙨𝙖𝙠𝙡𝙖𝙬 𝙨𝙖 𝙢𝙜𝙖 𝙗𝙪𝙣𝙙𝙤𝙠 𝙣𝙜 𝙋𝙞𝙣𝙨𝙖𝙡 𝙖𝙮 𝙩𝙖𝙩𝙖𝙢𝙗𝙖𝙙, 𝙖𝙩 𝙢𝙪𝙡𝙖 𝙨𝙖 𝙠𝙖𝙣𝙮𝙖𝙣𝙜 𝙥𝙖𝙜𝙠𝙖𝙠𝙖𝙮𝙖𝙨𝙖𝙠, 𝙢𝙖𝙜𝙡𝙖𝙡𝙖𝙜𝙖𝙗𝙡𝙖𝙗 𝙨𝙖 𝙡𝙖𝙜𝙣𝙖𝙩 𝙖𝙣𝙜 𝙣𝙤𝙤 𝙣𝙜 𝙠𝙖𝙗𝙪𝙣𝙙𝙪𝙠𝙖𝙣 𝙖𝙩 𝙢𝙖𝙜𝙡𝙖𝙡𝙖𝙝𝙤 𝙖𝙣𝙜 𝙖𝙨𝙖𝙢 𝙣𝙖 𝙠𝙧𝙞𝙨𝙩𝙖𝙡 𝙣𝙖 𝙗𝙪𝙢𝙪𝙗𝙪𝙠𝙖𝙡 𝙨𝙖 𝙢𝙜𝙖 𝙞𝙡𝙤𝙜.

Huwag sana natin itong hayaang mangyari.™️

___

(Sonnyboy Pacursa)

Isa lamang ito sa marami pang tanawin na matatagpuan sa Pinsal de Cabatacan Falls

ExploreLasam #EndlessFunCagayan #VisitCagayanPH  #PinsalDeCabatacanFalls #PinsalFalls #CabatacanWest #LasamCagayan #IntoTheWildSeries #TWOrismoSaLambak #RacetoHundredFalls #LoveThePhilippines

Tuesday, June 18, 2024

ILOCANDIA: THE NARRATIVE OF THE DRAMATIC SUNSET THAT NEVER FADES

ILOCANDIA: THE NARRATIVE OF THE DRAMATIC SUNSET THAT NEVER FADES

📌 Ilocos Sur, Philippines

EACH of the Philippines' province or region has a distinct feel: the landscape, the natural environment, the people and their culture.

Far north of Manila, on the western seaboard of Luzon Island, lies the Ilocandia, a narrow strip of land packed between the Cordillera mountains on the east and the azure, blue waters of South China sea on the west.

The best sunsets in the Philippines is on the western coast of the country  (Sabangan River, Santiago)

The Ilocandia, known administratively as Region 1, comprises the all first-class, Iluko-speaking provinces of Ilocos Norte, Ilocos Sur, La Union and Pangasinan. The Ilokanos, without fear and without prejudice are welcoming people marked by their ability to absorb almost any kind of outside influence. Perhaps, it was that kind of hospitality that allowed the Ilocandia to immediately embrace and eventually accept Spanish cultural heritage when subsequently Juan de Salcedo established his bastion at Ciudad Fernandina, now Vigan, Ilocos Sur. Up to this day, Vigan retains a retrospective, Spanish feels of lovely streets of Castilian houses and architecture; the most intact Spanish colonial place in the Philippines that made the city a celebrated UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The most intact Spanish colonial settlement in the world is found in Vigan, Ilocos Sir, a UNESCO World Heritage Site

The resplendent province of Ilocos Sur is arguably one of the most if not the most Spanish-colonized province in the country; the remnants of Hispanic colonization are seen on the sheer number of churches, fortifications and architectures found in nearly all of its towns - many of which, named after catholic saints and martyrs or atleast derived from Spanish terms.

Among those remnants, churches are Spain's most prominent architectural legacy built in baroque configuration and fortress-like walls and butress; also being the century-old Vigan Cathedral (1575), the San Juan de Sahagun Church also locally known as Candon Church (1695) and the Santa Maria Church built in 1765, a UNESCO declared heritage site, the most remarkable religious tourist spots not to miss on your map.

Santa Maria Church, one of the only four UNESCO baroque churches in the Philippines 

Moreover, Santa Maria boasts not only man-made attractions but also natural wonders alike. A coastal town embedded between the Sulvec Bay, part of the South China Sea and the western edge of the Cordilleras, Santa Maria is renowned with the majesty of Pinsal Falls characterized by a landscape like that of bright nature painting; spattered yellow, white, orange, green and brownish red hues in a canvas engulfed by the intertwined tentacles of a thick rainforest near the neighboring border of Abra province.

The climate in the Ilocandia Region is comparable to the Mediterranean during summer; plenty of sunny days that are not too hot that make an ideal long beach-ramping to its pristine shores as early as November that could last until early June. Its climate is perfect for growing the high-valued Virginia tobacco, one of the province's top source of income where Candon and Santa Cruz excel being the largest producers of the crop.

Kagutungan Falls in Santa Cruz, a type of block waterfall

Going south of Vigan is the tranquil seaside town of San Esteban, a historical municipality with a scenic coastline and a protected rich marine ecosystem. The Moro Watch Tower known as "Bateria" is a lasting sentinel against the marauding Moro pirates during the Spanish era and is considered to be the oldest landmark in San Esteban with a recognition from the National Historical Institute as an authentic, historical site. In 1944, the American forces with their attack submarine USS Gar docked in San Esteban Cove, landed at Apatot Beach as part of the eventual Philippine liberation against the stiff Japanese Army.

Not far from the landing site is the Layap Rock formation along the coast of Bateria. It is a gigantic hard-rock, almost spherical in shape and is believed to be a meteorite with magical stories knitted from the tongues of Ilokano generation.

The designated marine protected areas and the Fish Sanctuary of San Esteban allow its aquatic ecosystem to thrive well with excellent capacity. A spectacular shallow reef with highly varied life forms teeming incessantly beneath the surface is a dive site to behold when you visit this tiny town.

San Esteban Marine Protected Area rich in corals and sea grasses

Like said, the Ilocandia's super-fine weather resemblant to southern Europe is the inspiration behind the truly little Santorini of the Philippines - the luxure, world-class Vitalis Villas Resorts in the town of Santiago. The blue and white motiff of the Greek architectural style perched majestically on a cliff overlooking the expansive Santiago Cove elicits that of what can be found in Santorini, Greece, Azenhas Do Mar, Portugal, Ibizà, Spain or in Positano, Italy.

The municipality of Santiago is perhaps the most tourist-visited place in Ilocos Sur next to Vigan. Its white beaches from Butol, Gabao and Ambucao draws local tourists and passers-by while the tranquility and night life of Sabangan Beach at Santiago Cove beacons international visitors. Ilocos Region faces west and so, one of the best coasts in the country for sunset viewing can be found in this cove, near the Sabangan River where it meets the fading sun and the calm sea in a prismatic shimmer of brilliant yellow-orange horizon.

Sillouettes of docking boats and the numerous tangles of fish pens translate the afternoon scene so dramatic.

Santorini of the Philippines, Villa Vitalis, Santiago during a fine, Mediterranean feels weather 

The long coastline of Ilocos Region is located almost 90 degrees parallel to the prime meridian of the globe, creating the most perfect, dramatic painting of sunset in the country.

The Mapisi Rock Formation (Biak Na Bato) displays the rugged, northern parts of Santiago. This collosal boulder of coral rock is a work of geologic forces and perpetual sea barrage that transcended before time; testamenting that nature is still the greatest landscape architect that never stops jaw-dropping the adventurers. Mapisi is an Iluko word which means "being cut or sliced", as the formation presents a split gargantuan rock with a cavern that sits along the white sand beach giving an extremely beautiful sight and background. 

The unforgettable sunset viewing at Santiago, Ilocos Sur on sight a grounded Chinese barge

Still going south from Santiago is the bustling, historical city of Candon. It is where the local hero Isabelo Abaya declared the victory of the Ilokanos against the Spaniards, hence the famous battle cry "Sigaw ng Candon" (Ikkis Ti Candon) commenced in 1898. Not far from the historical marker of Sigaw ng Candon Monument is the San Juan de Sahagun Church erected in 1695, showcasing an intricate octagonal belfry. The church's interior highlights a curving ceiling of a heavenly painting and its 46-meter long canvas art of the Mysteries of the Holy Rosary is also believed to be the longest religious painting in the Philippines. Around and nearby the church are numerous preserved Spanish houses that adorn every alleys of the city's central business district.

Candon City doesn't have much aesthetic or rustic beach offerings like those found in Santiago or Cabugao other than the Darapidap Beach which is said to be the widest seashore in the entire Ilocos Sur and is only good for morning and sunset strolls along its brick-paved sea boulevard recognized by its Lighthouse but its lackness of such doesn't rid the city of its enormous economic power, owing partly to its profitable, luscious kalamay production and immense tobacco plantations that gained the city the reputation of being the Tobacco Capital of the Philippines.

Candon, the place where Philippine Independence was declared that lasted only 2 days known as the "Sigaw ng Candon"

The southern part of Ilocos Sur is generally mountainous yet, it is this feature that rewards the town of Santa Cruz the bounties of the tropical rainforest of the Cordilleras. One of which is the voluminous Kagutungan Falls that features giant strangler figs above its platform with their dangling roots soaked, hanging on the deep basin of the waterfalls. Together with Candon, the town of Santa Cruz, one of the largest municipalities of Ilocos Sur constitutes the largest tobacco production in the Ilocos Region owing to its near coastal plains dedicated to Virginia's cultivation.

Northeast of Santa Cruz, nearer to the mountain chain of the grand Cordillera is the small town of Salcedo. Already more tropical than the rest of the province since it faces far away from the sea, Salcedo takes pride of the idyllic mountainside where one can get an unwinding serenity at Bago Mountain Resort. Fresh from Mount Madarang, the natural spring water fills up the man-made pools with continuously running and refreshing water. Hugging the resort is the white water Buaya river meandering from the inner Cordilleras where trekkers and adventure-buffs could try to conquer, leading them to the Mount Madarang and falls and eventually into the historical Tirad Pass, the last stand of the young but brave Gen. Gregorio del Pilar who killed in that battle while protecting Gen. Emilio Aguinaldo against the pursuing American soldiers.

Sangbay Falls in Salcedo, meaning "welcome"

With steep terrains and higher rainfall than the coastal parts of the province, it is absolutely the countless waterfalls that stand out as the most spectacular inland water feature not just in the province but anywhere else in the Philippines; especially those surrounded by lush, brooding greens of the impenetrable tangles of vegetation. The rushing mountain river tumbling time and again over a precipitous cliff edge creating a stunningly striking vertical white ribbon of water dropping on a clear pool basin is the description of one of Ilocos Sur's tallest waterfalls, the Sangbay Falls. The falls lives up to its name, meaning "welcome", allowing every nature tripping, aside from beach-bumming so fantastic in Ilocos Sur.

The almost always friendly approach and warm welcoming of the Ilokanos are without any doubt, the signature descriptions of the Ilocandian human landscape. Of course the "pinakbet", a concoction of shrunk vegetables in a fish paste (bugguong) and the misunderstood concept against them being "kuripot" (thriftiness) as part of their cultural fabric etched in the minds of the uninformed are both attributed to the saluyot-loving Ilokanos.

A typical Ilokana woman of modesty and class

But regardless of what you think about them, I could not argue more until you experience the dramatic sunsets of Ilocos that never fade, the turning back of time at Vigan and the pleasantness of "bagnet", "dinengdeng" or "inabraw", when you attend a "punsion" or a "boda" festivities in any town of Ilocos Sur.

Agbiag dagiti Ilokano!

#IlocosChronicles #ilocossurtourism #IlocosSur #CandonCity #BeyondTheValley

Saturday, June 8, 2024

THE ORIGIN OF THE HUNDRED MUSHROOMS ON THE SEA

THE HUNDRED ISLANDS NATIONAL PARK (HINP)           📌 Lucap, Alaminos City, Pangasinan

SHELTERED by the calm Lingayen Gulf on the western coast of Luzon that is an extension of the rich West Philippine Sea, the glorious collection of "sea mounds" of eroded remains of ancient coral reefs called the Hundred Islands does not fail to beacon beach lovers from the country and from the world over. These small, mushroom-shaped islands covered with dense shrubby vegetation are part of Pangasinan's 20 square kilometers national park, or the Hundred Islands National Park (HINP) that makes the province an extraordinary and exciting place to explore. Undeniably, the Hundred Islands, composed of 124 precarious coral islands to be exact is Pangasinan's most defining feature as Bohol is to Chocolate Hills or Mayon Volcano is to Albay.

Sandal Island as seen on top of Pilgrimage Island view deck

Records show that in the last Ice Age, these primordial coral reefs upheaved and left high and dry by the falling sea levels by that time. Erosion and hydrologic forces over the course of many millennia undercut and sculpted many of the islands, making them appear mushroom or curious glans-shape monuments spattered north off the coast of Alaminos City. The islands are believed to be more than 2 million years old. Some of the islands are relatively little jagged, pointed karsts, resembling like little hills on the sea. To compare, these protruding islands are smaller than the karsts of Caramoan in Camarines Sur, Bicol Region. However, Caramoan's are smaller than Coron's or El Nido's in Palawan. But any of Palawan's karsts are no bigger than those found in Halong Bay, Vietnam. I personally saw all these karsts myself.

Two million years old reef islands upheaved due to falling sea levels

Many of the islands are still undeveloped because they are impossible to land on due to their physical features - precipitous, rocky and pointed cliffs. However, some of the bigger islands have white beaches suitable for swimming and among and in between these delicate islands are snorkeling sites that if you're lucky, an spectacular sight of sea turtle awaits you. Few of the islands have any kind of infrastructure on them, Ramos Island, being the most enhanced. The island features a massive pavilion of modern architectural design and a Bonsai Garden hanging on the limestone cliffs. For me this is the most picturesque island, evoking a sense of the hot summer days of the Aegean Sea of Greece or the colorful cliffs and escarpment of Positano, Italy. Ramos Island is also considered to be the main gateway of the HINP - all boats arrive here first before exploring all the other islands of the natural park.

Ramos Island, arguably the most picturesque island on the HINP

Beside Ramos Island, the Governor, Quezon and Children's Islands are also among the most developed and among the busiest, gravitating visitors towards them especially every weekend. The largest white to golden beach is on the Quezon Island however the one found in Governor's Island is also magnetic.

Attraction at Quezon Island, one of the most developed among the islands of HINP

An unbelievable two meter wide white sand beach separates Ramos Island to the Pilgrimage Island. The latter reminds us of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, featuring the massive statue of Christ, the Redeemer on the highest point of the island. On its lower slope, you can find The Stations Of The Cross for your serenity, peace of mind and meditation. The Pilgrimage Island is covered by fire trees and other flowering shrubs that have adapted to colonize and survive in the very poor and thin soil covering the coral limestone island.

The Pilgrimage Island reminds us of the famous Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

They say you cannot appreciate the Hundred Islands when not viewed on a helicopter at bird's eye view, but I say otherwise. Even in between the islands, myriad of waterways, channels and straits create mazes splitting and joining the coral islands leading to coves and bays in the most perfect azure blue sea of the Lingayen Gulf.

Floating pathways connecting Sandal, Pilgrimage and Ramos Islands

With a hundred islands to choose from, some are visited because of its serenity and less crowd to no crowd at all. There are small beaches and caves to the islands of Marcos, Cuenco and Sison. The sea water Imelda Cave located at Marcos Island is for the extreme adventurers where one can swim through a low arch into the open sea and make your way back to the other side to a nearby beach. But for us who were just wanted to have an easy fun, we entered the lovely Cuenco Island Cave, simpler but still stunning.

The Cuenco Cave leading into the other side of the Cuenco Island

Without any doubt, the Hundred Islands National Park is Pangasinan's number one destination, leaving a mark into the province's tourism slogan "Hundred Islands and Hundred Flavors".

It is difficult to underdescribe HINP incredible beauty as this is one of the most, if not the most stunning geological formation or natural monument I've ever seen in the length of Luzon Island's enormous coastline.

Pangasinan's pride, one of the Hundred Islands

But it has to be admitted now that Pangasinan, so as the bustling city of Alaminos, is becoming highly urbanized and the province, among the most populated in the Philippines. Its cities and towns  start to have a touch of chaos. Over the years, overfishing, history of dynamite use and litters have done untold damage to the marine environment surrounding the park. However, improved and more strict protection and rehabilitation program involving responsible tourism such as the "BASURA MO, IUWI MO PROGRAM" is believed to have a positive impact for the recovery of the corals, fish population and the entire natural park.

"Basura Mo, Iuwi Mo" Program, helping the HINP litter free

But still Pangasinan's endowment of the Hundred Islands despite of the province's extremely hustle bustle development, is second to none in terms of having a getaway featuring the most beautiful natural places  and island hopping indulgence in the Philippines .

#HundredIslandsAndHundredFlavors #HINP #Pangasinan #HundredIslands #Ilocandia